Do you ever wonder why things were created? Why they are the way that they are?
A wave rolls in and I join it. I laugh and the wave laughs back. An exchange of joy. I know that waves, swell, currents, and wind have a huge role in the harmony of the world, but I can’t help to think that they are also here for interaction- for surfing, and to remind, us humans, that we are part of nature.
I don’t know of any other activity like surfing. I can’t think of any other sport, hobby, or thrill that sets one in motion with the literal movement of nature. Mountains are beautiful, but they are stationary. Rocks are magnificent for climbing, but that too, the human is in motion. Trails, and tracks, fields and pools- all marvelous, but not quite like the fluidity of the ocean.
I paddle again, matching my velocity with the buildup of saltwater forming behind me. Our energies link up, and there I go in a natural flow. The delight, the excitement, the familiarity. Every ride reminds me that there is no separation, no humans vs nature, only creation and co-creating.
I look at surfing as co-creating with the waves. An expression. Two spokes from the universal hub holding hands, amplifying the dignified.