How? How do you know? “How do you know you’re surfing?” The question scurried through my brain, as if not to be seen. “Hmmmm…” I stopped the thought in its track, made it back up, and repeat itself…. “How? How do you know you are surfing??”
Is it the sight of the water and land meeting? Is it the sound of crashing waves? Is it the ocean against your skin? Is it the feel of the board beneath you, supporting you, gliding with you? Is it the sun dancing on your salty face? Is it the whistle of the wind? The chime of the birds?
How? How do you know you are surfing? It seems like such a simple question…
Is it the movement of your muscles? The reaching of the arms? The balance in the legs? The steadiness of the body working in unison? Perhaps it’s the beating of the heart? The butterflies in the stomach? The passionate grin?
Tell me how, how do you know you are surfing??
Is it the mind? The Zen-like state? The calmness? The peacefulness? The feeling of unconditional love? Is it the feeling of oneness? The connection made with something deep within, yet in everything else too? Is it the steady focus? The present-moment state of being? The automatic, from the heart actions?
Laurel, how, how do you know you are surfing?
…Because when I am surfing, that is all I know…