A gorgeous day it was in Puerto Rico. I could taste the salt on my lips from the spray of the sets rolling in. I timed it perfectly and paddled out, managing to keep my hair dry… Fast forward twenty minutes…
A huge set pushing 12ft or more, AKA a sneak set, appeared on the horizon. Everyone in the lineup began digging. I managed to get over the first wave, but there were several more to come. Caught in the impact zone (where the waves have the most force when breaking) I decided to push my board out from under me and swim under. Forgetting it was not like home, I had to hover over the reef instead of lying flat on the bottom.
After the wave had passed I merged quickly to the surface only to find another massive face. Immediately I took a slurp of air, pushed my board away from me again and swam back down to the calm bellow. With the reef tickling my belly and the thunderous white water rolling above me I suddenly felt a tug on my leg. The force of the wave broke my leash, my line to what I had planned to hold onto for rest and to safely get me into shore after this was over, was gone. I let out a silent scream. Thoughts began running through my head… how will I get in? Can I manage to tread water until someone helps me? Will my board be okay?
…So there I was all 115 pounds of me drifting with no flotation device, no life line. Regardless, I had to keep swimming as more and more waves rolled in. As I swam out and dove down time after time a smile grew upon my face. I was stripped of material things that many humans often identify as being necessities, not being able to live without. Without anything in my possession, other than my bathing suit that was now twisted and tangled, I quickly became humbled.
A spiritual experience it was. The deep vortex that we all have remained, even though everything else was gone. It provided me with time to check in, to remind myself how powerful I am, the I am that does not have a name or a degree or material goods. Have you checked in lately? Are material possessions or identifications of who you are becoming attachments? Can you let it all go just for a few moments a day to experience the core of your existence?