The barrel of a wave is like the pupil of the eye. A hollow funnel, a rounded rim, constantly adjusting to the sunlight that streams through it. The outer world spiraling into its tunnel- displaying upside-down, backwards, and sideways. The world swirls within the liquid tube, through the eye of the human, and somehow is seen “right-side-up.” It’s only through this divine translation that our sight makes sense to us.
The hollowest tubes, the ones that are opened the widest, are the ones surfers seek. Perhaps there is something to this. The bigger the barrel, the more light is invited in, the more we want a chance to ride, to stand or crouch directly in it. Maybe this is similar to our vision. Maybe we are meant to see with wide open eyes. Maybe we are supposed to let so much light in that others seek us out. And maybe with wide open lenses the world can swirl through us and always seem magnificent.