The water swirls at the end of the jetty. It’s created by backwash from ocean surge bumping into the rocks, energy from numerous directions, and a rip-current pulling everything in its path back out to sea. It seems like a tricky, maybe even dangerous spot, but that’s where the waves peak up and break, sending the surfer in a northern direction.
I sit and watch. Swell emerges amongst the horizon and moves towards the swirly mix. When the waves get close they reach for the sky, crash against the rocks, and bolt right. My heart races. I know I will have to sit at the point of the rocks in order to catch this wave.
I watch more. Smack! The water shoots up, the energy doubles and catapults right. I find a sense of ease as I watch this sequence continue. I realized it can only push me away from the rocks; for I will be sitting in the spot where the wave comes back into itself after pushing off the rocks.
The rocks are not so much a barrier, but rather a progress-er. They simply help the waves break. The rocks act as a trampoline for the evolving waves, obliging them reach a velocity to support their journey. Without the rocks, the waves would be powerless, maybe not even break at all.